Meadowbrook was the initial developer of the FOREST homes and built the majority of them. These have foundations of 10" poured concrete which is very strong (4000 p.s.i.). The homes built later by Broyhill in the Greenbrier Section on Galveston Street and Carlin Spring Road have cinder block foundations, which had become standard by that time. There is a 3/4" steel rebar (reinforcing bar) running the perimeter of the house. The floor in the basement is a 2 1/2" hard concrete. The exterior of the foundation was parged (plastered) and coated with black waterproofing. There is drain tile 4" around the whole house on the inside of the foundation under the slab which constitues the floor. This tile empties into the basement floor drain which by today's codes would not be permissible. The practice today in building homes is to put drain tile around the outside of the foundation.
The homes built by Meadowbrook, which have the concrete foundations, may show signs of "effervescing" or "spalding." This is the leaching-out of salts within the concrete after a long time, forming a white powdery film on the basement walls. This does not weaken the strength of the walls.
The Broyhill homes have solid brick masonry exterior while the Meadowbrook homes have a brick veneer which is non-structural but is very strong and a factor of insulation.
A steel I-beam supports the basement ceiling and is the source of a crack which usually runs inside the basement. We can call it a "basic characteristic" of these houses but it has no structural consequence. Rather it is an aesthetic problem which can be handled with paneling.
The crack in the livingroom ceiling is not a structural problem either. This crack is due to the end-to-end placement of lath board when the ceiling and walls were constructed. If the lath had been applied in an overlapping fashion the crack would not occur.
There are two miscellaneous notes on the topic of the basement. There is a "way to the attic" from the basement which allows cable wiring and avoids exposed conduits outside the house. In the basement wall, behind the original furnace location, there is a 3" stack up to the second floor bathroom. If you take out the original medicine cabinet, you can run an electrician's snake adjacent to this 3" stack to the basement. This same method can be used to run the snake to the attic. It would take two people to handle this project. Be careful when exploring, however, because the original use of the chute was to discard razor blades!
The soil stack from basement through attic to the roof is another passage way allowing wiring. Twine weighted with something heavy can be allowed to fall from the attic down through the space. Then, pull it back up with the wiring attached. For further ideass about such useful spaces between the wall studs, wherever contractors had not put in fire blacking, consult the READERS' DIGEST YELLOW BOOK, an excellent detailed repair manual available in larger hardware stores.
Gas turn-off valves are near the top of the meter in the basement for the supply to the house and near the bottom of the meter for the supply from the street into the house. The latter is more importnat for turn-off in case of emergency. A wrench at least 12" in size is necessary to effect the 90-degree turn-off.
It would be wise to tag water valves as well as gas valves. The gas company will supply more information if needed.
Cracks in plaster, with some exception, are an eyesore rater than a hazard. Most of them are caused by settling of the house, vibrations like heavy traffic of big trucks, blasting, and water. The damage caused by water is quite different from the other causes, and professional help is most likely required for repair. However, many home owners can take care of cracks before re-painting. The following is an outline for fixing cracks.
All FOREST houses, excluding additions, have plastered walls and ceilings. If cracks in plaster occur, they can be fixed in two basic ways:
| A. with plaster or B. with drywall tape and compound |
1. Use an old-fashioned can opener and firmly rip it along the crack until a V-shaped opening is achieved. The plaster is an average of « to 3/4" thick. This total thickness consists of 2 layers: a base coat about 5/8" and a finish coat about 1/8". The base coat is applied over rocklath. Rocklath is 3/8" thick in pieces of 16" by 48" and very similar to sheetrock. Care should be taken not to dig into the paper surface of this rocklath. Unless the crack goes all the way through, this would only weaken the lath further.
2. Examine both edges along this V opening to see if re-nailing is necessary. Using the fingers with a fair amount of pressure, you should find no movement at any stud or joist.
3. Use a dry brush and remove all loose matter and dust.
4. Use clean water and a brush to wet the inside of the crack.
5. Make a putty of 50/50 proportion of gauging plaster and autoclaved lime. Consistency should be about that of soft ice cream. Use clean cold water and mix no more than what can be used up in about 10 minutes.
6. Use a plastering trowel or putty knife and squeeze mixture firmly into the crack. Do not tarry in one spot but move along briskly, making sure that the surrounding surface is kept clean. Shrinkage will occur depending on the depth and width of the crack.
7. Repeat Step 6 until surface is flush and smooth. For the final polishing, use a wet brush in front of the trowel.
Note: Do not use sandpaper on plaster. Plaster is not easy to use by an unskilled person because the setting time is rather short.
The Plaster of Paris (known in the trade as gauging plaster) and the autoclaved lime are both in power form and only a few places sell them. Hechinger's and paint stores sell what would be suitable for repair of small cracks but for plastering 3 or 4 square feet, other supplies would be better. The smallest quantity available at wholesalers, like Metro Building Supplies in Vienna, is 25 pounds. Hudson Supply Company in Manassas sells 50-60 pound quantities.
The lime should be made into putty before gauging plaster is added. Lime will not set by itself. DO NOT use lime without mixing it with the gauging plaster.
B. Using Drywall Tape and Joint Compound1. Scrape off all loose paint and make the surface clean about 6" on each side of the crack.
2. Use a 6" flexible putty knife and force as much drywall compound into the crack as possible. After the crack is filled, proceed to spread a band of compound about 1/16" to 1/8" thick and about 4" wide over the center of each crack. Take the drywall tape and cut a piece to fit the length of the crack. If the crack is in a corner, fold in half along the tape width. Place this cut tape at one end of the crack and over the center of the crack. Use the putty knife to embed this tape firmly and evenly into the wet compound. Repeated strokes may be necessary to get it down tight. Do not leave any excess compound on top or sides. Do not leave air bubbles under the tape. Let it dry 24 hours or more before applying a top coat.
3. After the tape job is thoroughly dry, use a putty knife (6" will do fine) and apply an even top coat. Do not apply to thick at any one time. Repeat until all tape is covered and the edges are "feathered" without any ridges or pits. Each coat must be dry before the next may be applied. If the patch is a corner, do one side at a time; i.e., one side must be dry before the other side is taped.
4. Use a medium grade sandpaper and sand any bumps or ridges until a smooth and even patch is achieved. If Steps 2 and 3 were done properly, very little sanding is required. Touching up with compound is ok at any time, providing the surface is dry. Painting may begin as soon as the patch is dry. A prime coat is recommended before finish paint is applied.
Note: For several reasons, the average person will find B. preferable to A. Besides the skill involved, drywall materials are also readily available in various quantities and are relatively inexpensive. Done well, the result is good, i.e., hardly noticeable and lasting.
In discussing furnace capacity, the BTU in-put (most likely 100,000) is not the only factor in selecting an efficient furnace. The pushing power of a furnace and the air duct capacity are very important. Sufficient cold air return is an improvement needed in the ARLINGTON FOREST home. One possibility is to take some of the closet space, particularly in the hall linen closet, to put in a duct. This air return affects not only heating but air conditioning as well (details in the Energy section.)
Chimneys need to be checked every few years to be sure they are not clogged. This can be done by the home-owner by pulling out the flue cover and checking with a mirror to see if daylight is visible. Otherwise a furnace man or chimney sweep is needed. Several fires in the FOREST could have been prevented if This procedure had been regularly practiced.
The use of a "whole house" ventilating fan could be an important factor in temperature control. This fan can be installed in the hallway ceiling with the control switch in the linen closet. It will pull air through the house from whatever window is open, on either the first or second floors, or from the cool of the basement. These fans are available at Hechinger's.
Since there is no insulation in bedroom ceilings, the attic should be given attention. The temperature in the attic should be the same as outside. Insulation should be put in between the ceiling joists and the, perhaps, covered with plywood (2x8 sheets of 1/2") or with boards (1x8 or 1x6) to provide flooring and allow maximum storage as well as insulation. The trap door which allows access to the attic should also be insulated. One suggestion is a "box" of 1" thick styrofoam fitted to the door opening that can easily be lifted aside or pulled into place to seal off that loss of air.
Speaking of ceiling — some bedroom ceilings look very wavy, as if a good plaster job is needed. The cause of This unattractive surface is that 1 1/2" cane fingers like ceiling tiles were used for surfacing and the plastered over. Where the panels were not nailed into place, the material sags. A good plaster job will improve the situation.
A concern to every FORESTER is the cause and elimination of
leaks. The first place to check is the basement.
Some causes of basement leaks may be:
Solutions could be:
Due to the age of the plumbing in the FOREST homes, the pipes may now require some major work. Galvanized pipes last 40- 50 years and the half-century birthday of many of the homes is only 2 years away. Horizontal pipes are the first to deteriorate. The downward angle of the horizontal pipe under tub should fall a specific number of inches but the kitchen ceiling restricts the fall. An excessive amount of water remains continuously in the pipe, speeding corrosion.
If there are leaks traced to the bathroom on the second
floor, there are two primary spots to check:
Both the drain in the tub and the overflow can be taken out for the purpose of replacing gaskets. For the drain, one can use vise grips and needle nose pliers to twist out the pipe. For the over-flow, there are two screws on the plate or perhaps the center ring which held the stopper chain is itself the screw. A tool called an internal pipe wrench will help if both drain and over- flow pipes need to be taken out. Access to tub fixtures is through the adjacent bedroom's closet in Meadowbrook homes and in the kitchen ceiling for Broyhill homes. Two people with flash lights are needed to work this project.
The wall tiling, if well done, should not cause leaks because the bottom row of tile goes over the lip of the tub. Regular re-caulking of the tile-tub seam is advisable. When caulking the tile around the tub, the black fungus which accumulates must be scraped out and the, as importantly, let the area dry for several days before re-caulking. DAP latex caulks can be purchased cheaply at Hechinger's and can be used for the tile/tub job as well as the apron/floor seam. Run your moistened thumb across the caulking several times to finish it off.
Water pressure can be a problem when there is a buildup of minerals in pipes. The drain pipes of sink and tub should be snaked every other year for proper maintenance. A steel coil snake of 1/4" with a spring head, not cutting head, can be rented locally. Back-up into the tub when you empty the sink basin indicates there is blockage and it should be taken care of.
Use of lye or other caustic materials to clear pipes is not recommended, both for environmental reasons and plumbing reasons. Vapors are very strong and require immediate flushing with 10-20 gallons of water and then the same procedure 30 minutes later. After the water leaves the individual home, of course, then water treatment facilities must purify the water for re-use. These materials increase the corrosion of the pipes.
Simple metal "cups" like sieves, the same diameter as drain opening, should be placed in the drain of the tub and sink, if possible, to catch hair and other items which could slow the flow of water.
The bathroom sink trap may also need snaking out. If corroded piping needs replacement, it would be wise to use plastic pipe which can purchased at local plumbing stores or Hechinger's. the sink pipe goes 3" into the wall and threads into the stack.
In homes before additions may have brought changes, plumbing in the kitchen is in one section, in the wall behind the original sink/stove location.
One more note on the existing older bathrooms: There seems to be no ground fault, no grounded outlets, in the original houses. Due to the proximity of water to electrical appliances like hair dryers, there should be a ground fault receptacle in the bathrooms. If an addition is contemplated, the electrician will probably advise that such receptacles be added to bathroom and kitchen.
When our hoses were built, a bathroom in the basement was an option. These homes could have roughed in toilets for about $10! (Options of a bathroom, screening the porch, and adding a fireplace would have added $517 to the base price of $5995 in 1940!)
This bathroom capacity may be recognized now by a knobbed shape of concrete in the basement floor, probably in the vicinity of the furnace. A bathroom in the basement, done correctly, requires air-hammering out the concrete floor and digging to find the SOIL drain, not at all the same as the basement drain designed for ground water or laundry water. To intercept the sewer line, which is 3" in diameter within the house and becomes 4" outside to the street, requires major construction efforts.
If the basement already tends to be damp, a shower would increase the problem. Should you want to install one, the narrow basement staircase necessitates getting a shower that comes apart and can be re-assembled for installation unless there is an exterior basement door large enough for the shower unit.
Consistent with all of our trees in ARLINGTON FOREST and our nearby parks are the number of squirrels which share the space. Hip roof ventilators, chimneys, and attics provide living space for them which can be inconvenient and even dangerous to the homeowner.
Hardware cloth (1/4" galvanized) or rabbit cloth or chicken wire (the name depends on where you came from) can be used to make a cap for the chimney or chimneys in our homes. This is an absolute must for the protection of the human occupants in our homes. Nests built there can prevent the escape of noxious gases from the furnace or create fires. The hardware cloth can also be used as caps over ventilators, or nailed over the louvers in the gable ends. To preserve the louvers, it is advisable to nail the hardware cloth on the outside of the house. ABC Distributors on Four Mile Run Drive sell the materials.
A helpful way to keep debris out of the gutters is to cover them with screening available at Metal Distributors in Alexandria. This screening comes in 3-foot lengths, aluminum or galvanized. Since the latter lasts 10-12 years, you may prefer aluminum which lasts longer. However, it also depends on the material of your gutters. If they are aluminum, use aluminum screening; if galvanized, use galvanized screening.
Only one new roof covering (i.e., shingles) can be placed over an existing roof. Because of weight, the next new roof requires that both old roofs be removed before the latest new one is added. Most of our houses would now be due for a third roof. A recommendation is for 20-year, class A Fiberglass, 240 lbs/sq. ft. or heavier shingles. 215 lbs/sq.ft. will do.
When an old roof is to be removed, catch debris falling between the roof boards into the attic by lining the attic ceiling with 2 or 3 mil plastic, keeping it in place by staples. Remove the plastic when the new roof is completed.
Attic space can be used for storage by installing a pull- down stairway, available in lumber supply and building stores. It should be of sturdy quality so as not to give way at the hinged section when stepped on with heavy loads. (See details under the "Storage section" in the manual.)
An attic ventilation fan with thermostat is very useful for temperature control. The switch can be put in the bedroom below.
Arlington County requires a permit for installing sheds of 150 square feet or more. Although the state does not require a permit, the county does if the structure is not pre-fab and is built by oneself. For our R6 zoning, there must be 15 feet between the dwelling and an out building (shed). If the distance is less than 15 feet, then the shed must be 8 feet from the boundary line. If walls, trees, or grade present problems, a variance may have to be requested from the Zoning Board of Appeals. This requires making a brief presentation and paying a fee. In any case, simply going to or telephoning the County office of permits for information can be very helpful and may save a lot of problems. Be prepared before contacting the office; know what you want to do and have specifics in order.
In addition to county considerations, keep in mind that any structure on such a small property is visible to everyone around. If care is given, esthetics and practicality can work together. Old sheds, rusting or dilapidated, can be refinished with sanding and then painted with metal paint. If the only alternative is to demolish it, the county sanitation/refuse office can give information on hauling. The County itself will provide for the hauling if the shed is collapsed and put at the curb. Call 558- 2321.
Arlington County collects garbage in the FOREST on Thursday. This schedule is so rigorous that they collect trash even on Thanksgiving Day. Exceptionally bad weather may cause delay but it will occur. Covered cans or fastened plastic bags are required by the County and residents must remove all emptied cans within 24 hours. Again, this is not merely a County requirement but a neighborly gesture as well.
Our small "estates" are nearly communal in the sense that everyone around us can enjoy the attractive things we do on our property. On the other hand, when we use our yards as dump sites others can see that as well and it is not at all enjoyable. The back yards are a public as the front since we all live so close together. Take advantage of the hauling services of the County.
Bulky items such as dismantled sheds, old tires, unused bikes, furniture, or appliances will be picked up if prior arrangement is made by calling 558-2321.
Burning leaves is prohibited. Residents should rake leaves into the gutter in front of their homes where vacuum trucks will pick them up. There is usually a minimum of three runs each Fall. Leaves collected by the County are used for mulch which is available also for residents the following Spring.
Re-cycling of newspapers is easily done in Arlington. There are collection sites in the county. Perhaps the closest is located in the parking lot behind the Mason's Lodge across George Mason Drive from the Unitarian Church. Another one, which is managed by the county, is by Four Mile Run at Columbia Pike, on the edge of the small shopping center next to the jogging/bike trail.
Usable clothing and furniture will be picked up by Purple Heart Service Foundation (277-8737) and the Salvation Army (642- 9270).
The Arlington Forest Exxon Station participates in the state's oil collection/recycling program so oil from cars can be brought there in containers.
As for other items you no longer need but consider "too good" simply to discard, participate in the annual lawn/garage sales in the FOREST. You may still be able to enjoy your item from time to time at a neighbor's!
If you are considering remodeling the basement, you may want to include a full-width storage closet in your plans. This closet could run along one of the walls without windows. A depth of 20" would do, enough to store out-of-season clothes on a hanger bar. Several layers of 8' long shelves could be combined with a 5' hanger bar of aluminum (1" diam.) with a dowel run through it for weight support. Be sure to take precautions against mildew by venting the closet doors and installing a dehumidifier.
Another useful project that expands storage are shelves built into the wall of the basement stairs. Naturally you will want to use the inner wall or you will end up with cold storage. Those homes with rear additions could, in fact, use the outside wall which has the advantage of being deeper. The inner wall is only about 2 1/2" deep. Basically, the project involves knocking out a lot of plaster and then neatening up the openings with drywall compound. Shelves can then be fitted into the opening. A 4" deep shelf (particle board works fine) is sufficient for most cans, bottles, and boxes. This yields about 12 linear feet of new shelf space.
Under stairways, basement or living room, storage space can also be created. Even at the foot of the basement stairs, a closet could be included in the corner to serve as a pantry with shelves and tall space on the floor for larger, heavier items.
Existing closets may be more of a frustration but there is hope. First, consider putting two hanging bars in a closet - one placed as high as you can reach and the other placed so that short clothes just clear the floor. For most men this will work fine; women will have to find a way to hang full-length dresses. Commercial closet stretchers do not work in hour homes because they are designed for full-width openings which our closets lack. Shoe racks or bags can be hung on the inside of closet doors.
Perhaps wall space is less important than storage. In that case, closets can be opened up and the door replaced by bi- folds. Bi-folds with mirrors are even more useful.
Remember the storage possibilities on the backs of doors, especially in the downstairs coat closet. Not only hooks and rods but containers like small plastic wastebaskets can be attached to hold keys, hats, mittens, scarves, etc. Plastic mug racks will also serve. There is no concern for overloading the hinges of these closet doors unless one were to buy a rack for canned goods.
Towel racks for family or guests are not plentiful in most homes. Adding at least two brass or plastic rods (impervious to moisture) to the back of bedroom doors allows drying space for two sets of towels and wash cloths.
Drums three feet high and 14" or so in diameter can hold out-of-season clothing and then be covered to serve as bedside tables or tables anywhere else for that matter. They are sometimes available at wholesalers or grain suppliers.
Dead bolt locks should be installed on all exterior doors, perhaps even on the basement door leading into the kitchen if you have unsecured basement windows and door. If a door is 1/3 glass, use a double cylinder (two keys) lock. In all cases, a good heavy strikeplate, now supplied with dead bolt locks, should be installed using long 2 « or 3" screws.
"Operation I.D." available from the library is another helpful approach toward security.
Basement windows may be protected by wrought iron grilling, one horizontal iron bar, or the use of plastic shields. One type of plastic is generically called polycarbonate plastic. It has a glazing 40 to 50 times stronger than acrylic and so it is expensive. Its disadvantage is that if placed in direct sun, it deteriorates. Acrylic will not deteriorate and if bought at 3 times normal thickness, it will serve as a deterrent.
A concern in sealing the basement for security purposes would be escape capability, if the space is used a living space, not merely work space.
Double hung windows should be pinned. Casement windows would need locking latches installed or a thin 1" piece of flat steel installed vertically in front of each window panel and anchored to the header and the sill. This piece of metal will divide the open window area in half, preventing easy entry, and will blend in with the metal window design. If planning to replace original windows, look for sturdy windows. Many of the vinyl replacement windows are easily forced open due to plastic and nylon locks and pins. Of course, locking windows on the first floor at night or when away is basic security practice.
Three police services in particular will be helpful for homeowners to avoid burglary. One is the security survey conducted by an officer at your home which may be requested from the police department. Another is "Neighborhood Watch" which can be organized by blocks. Ask for the blue brochure "Your Role in Crime Prevention" which has excellent security tips for your homes. Call the Crime Resistance Office 558-2976 for these and further information.
Doors to the exterior of our homes should be solid wood. A wide-angle door viewer should be inserted into the door to allow you to pre-view, without being seen, a caller at the door. Mail slots allowing direct entry to the house should have an interior hood attached on the inside of the door to prevent anyone from looking through it into the house.
Timers for lights, interior and exterior, or radio are an inexpensive precaution. Vary their placement from time to time.
Shrubs should be kept trimmed back to avoid providing shelter for an unwanted guest. Privacy fences can also conceal unwanted activity, requiring better security on parts of the house hidden by them.
In security matters, a nosey neighbor is a good neighbor! When calling the police department to report an unusual situation, the caller is asked name, address, and phone in case additional information is needed or to get back to the caller. However, the caller may also request anonymity and this will be respected.
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