LAWNS

Growing grass in the FOREST is often like, well, growing grass in a forest — often frustrating and always challenging. There are a few basics, though, that can be managed with surprisingly good results.

The first is soil chemistry, and while you don't need to dig for the old high school textbook, understanding what we're starting with can be very helpful. Unfortunately, what we start with here is C L A Y. Two basic problems follow. One, because of its density, water is very slow to penetrate to the roots of the grass (usually 6-8"). Most water runs off rather than being absorbed and, if it does not run off, it just stands there. Two, this density of clay also prevents oxygen from penetrating into the soil, another requirement of plant growth. Let's see, that's air, water, earth — some of us have never gotten beyond the ancient Greeks' understanding of chemistry!

The second important chemical fact of life in the FOREST is largely a function of history. Hundreds of autumns mean millions of leaves and their decomposition means acid in the soil in unusually high concentrations. As with most things, this acid is a mixed blessing - great for azaleas and rhododendrons (just ask any transplanted mid-westerner who grew up thinking forsythia was the only flowering bush) but very hard on grasses. All successful lawns in the FOREST adjust for these two basics, clay and acidity in the soil.

A lot of guesswork can be taken out of the process by having the soil in your yard and flower gardens tested, and the state makes this very easy to do. You can contact the County Extension office at 855 N. Edison Street in the Jackson School (558-2475). They will provide you with containers for the samples and send them to Blacksburg for analysis.

Take separate samples from lawn, garden, and shrub areas. Results for the property at 5201 N. First St. showed clay soil with ph levels of 5.0 in the lawn, 5.5 in the flower garden, and 5.7 in the shrubs. Ph measures the acidity in the soil, with a reading of 7 representing neutral, lower readings indicating more acid. Recommendations by the state will vary according to which section of the property is sampled.

SOLUTIONS

Short of digging up your yard and replacing it, changing the chemical balance of lawns is a gradual process. Controlling the effects of clay soil is a two-step process, aeration and mixture.

Aeration involves punching holes in the soil, usually about 6" deep and 1/2" diameter, removing those "tubes" of clay. (There are several types of aerator, both mechanical and muscle driven, that can be rented or purchased.) This allows oxygen and moisture to penetrate to the roots of the grass promoting growth and spreading. The aeration holes should then be filled with organic material (peat moss, compost, or manure, etc.) which adds nutrients and breaks down the density of the clay. This can be done at any time, but is most useful in early spring. It is also one of the few treatments where more is frequently better.

The recommended mixture of soil is 30% organic material or about 2" mixed with 6" of soil. This comes to a little over 6 square feet of area if you were to start from scratch. Controlling the acidity of the soil is also pretty straightforward — crushed limestone applied to the yard (not to shrubs or flower beds) in Spring and Fall will neutralize the acid and promote healthy grass.

The big question here is how much? While this will vary for individual conditions, our area generally requires more than most. For the house at 5201 N. First, which was tested, the state recommends application of 170 pounds of crushed limestone per 1000 square feet on a lawn with this acidity. The lime should be applied in small amounts, about 50 pounds at a time at intervals of 1 to 6 months until the full amount has been applied. Remember that the total amount needed depends on the ph level in your particular yard so it's a good idea to have the test done first. The testing will also result in advice for fertilizer treatment.

A final common problem in FOREST lawns is a result of maturity. Forty-year-old lawns are a lot like the houses themselves: solid but sometimes needing to be refreshed. Maturity sometimes means a buildup of thatch, dead grass and debris that makes it even tougher for water and nutrients to get in. A firm "combing" with a thatch rake is the best treatment, best done in the Fall, or late Spring after the grass has started to grow. This and the other soil treatments will also help to control moss and other weeds that can threaten especially shady areas.

Everything discussed so far assumes that the grass in you yard is generally satisfactory but needs some improvement. If there are bare spots or whole areas that need re-seeding, it is once again best to start with the basics. Grass didn't grow there for a reason, and that reason is likely to have something to do with the soil itself.

Treating the soil before planting seed may be the best guarantee of success. The treatment is basically the same as for existing lawns. This includes raking the area and treating it with organic material to a good depth so as to prevent problems related to clay.

Because we are in a transitional zone for climate, hybrid grasses are usually most effective. These should be hybrids that do well in shade and can withstand the heat of summer. Tall fescues, sometimes combined with Kentucky blue, are the standards recommended and, given the proper care, they will do very well here. Zoysia is another grass used in the climate. It is especially popular because of its tendency to spread fully and require little maintenance.

Some properties have lawn growing over a grade, usually in the front. An excellent option to minimize care is to plant groundcover. After you have taken the soil sample, select a groundcover to your liking: delicate or coarse, one color or variegated, vine or plant, etc. Laying black plastic to help control the weeds while the cover takes hold is a good idea.

Then the individual cuttings are planted through small holes made in the plastic. Mulch is put on top. Some suggestions, depending on soil conditions and amount of light, are: pachysandra, ivy, periwinkle, ajuga, sweet woodruff, etc. The Arboretum has resource materials you could consult and so does our own County library which has an extensive gardening section. The leaves will present a challenge in the Fall. This can be handled by vacuuming up the leaves if you planted vines or raking if you are able to get in among the plants.

SHRUBS AND TREES

Perhaps the most obvious assets of ARLINGTON FOREST are the many beautiful and mature trees that were retained when the area was first developed or have been planted and cared for by the Foresters before us. They give shade to keep us cool in the summer and provide much of the character of the neighborhood. Under normal circumstances, these trees require very little care — most have been around longer than we have and will be here long after we're gone.

In fact, the State recommends fertilization of trees only if they exhibit poor growth and color. If growth is poor, the Extension Service suggests application of 2 pounds (one quart) of 5-10-5 fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter as measured 3 feet above the ground. The fertilizer should be applied about a month before the average date of the last frost in the Spring. Spread the fertilizer in a band around the tree about 2 feet from the trunk and extending out several feet beyond the ends of the branches. Scatter fertilizer evenly in this area, then water liberally.

The biggest problem faced by trees in our area is the gypsy moth which attacks hardwood trees and has been appearing in the County since 1982. It is here to stay, it seems, and the following steps are recommended:

• August through April, look for the egg masses on tree trunks, fences, under the eaves of houses (when cleaning gutters).
• scape them off, collecting them, in order to destroy them. Do not let them fall to the ground to crush them because that will not work. Soak them in bleach, alcohol, or ammonia.
• once the larvae are hatched and become caterpillars, the best way to try to protect the trees is to tie cloth or burlap strips around the oak trees in May. This will provide them a cool "resting" place during the day and you can remove them with pincers ad destroy them in a jar of alcohol.
• when the moth stage arrives, traps are available on the market and this may help.

Additional information is readily available at the Extension Office. The County does survey to determine the extent of the infiltration and there is area spraying.

Besides controlling pests, keeping trees trimmed provides the best advantage to the overall landscape. Dappled or broken shade encourages a variety of plants to grow while dense shade seriously inhibits all growth. It is also important to notice the effect of your trees on your neighbor's yard because of the same effects. You may both want to discuss it and share the expense or work of tree trimming.

The variety of flowering and other shrubs are another major asset of the FOREST, making all of us look forward to Spring. Most of these shrubs also require relatively little care, although the unusually cold winters of the early 1980's (not to mention the heavy snows of 1987) have created some problems and resulted in some losses. AS with larger trees, fertilizing is only required if growth is poor, exhibited by light green leaves and short thin twigs.

At the the First Street property, the azalea beds with a ph of 5.7 were not acid enough, so the Extension agent recommended using 10 pounds of aluminum sulfate per 100 square feet in the shrub area. This should also be applied slowly and distributed over the entire root area of the bushes. (Azaleas should be trimmed just after blooming and only small amounts should be trimmed each year in order to insure good flowering each season.)

Finally, the test results indicated a need for 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer in the flower garden.

Since not only our homes but also our lots are small, choice of plantings must take into account size as well as color, shape, and texture. Small trees (called "under trees" which grow 30-40 feet at maturity) to be considered for the FOREST would be: katsura tree, goldenrain tree, Marshall seedless green ash, red buds, dogwood, Bradford pears, saucer leaf and star magnolias, and Chinese or Japanese cut-leaf maples.

Trees to avoid because of size are tulip, silver maples, pines, and magnolias. There are so many lists that could be given! The best advice is to spend time at the Arboretum, Dumbarton Oaks, and Brookside Gardens, noticing the different plantings at different seasons — you will have so many ideas you will need an estate to use them all!

An additional advantage to al-time favorite greenery here such as hollies (which need at least one male to several females), dogwood, smaller magnolias, honeysuckle and trumpet vine is their attraction to birds (not pigeons!). Hummingbirds, robins, cardinals, woodpeckers, mockingbirds - they'll come and amuse you if they find the right environment. Food, shelter, and the water will draw them. Keep your cat on a leash and watch the feathery creatures gather!

FENCES AND BORDERS

A final aspect of outside maintenance and care which should be considered is the use of fences and other border materials to isolate or accentuate certain parts of your property.

While some level of privacy is desirable for any home, one must think about how fences affect others in the vicinity. A few guidelines will allow for the desired privacy without damaging the openness of the area. First, think about how the fence will influence light, visibility, and air flow. Second, learn what the county ordinances require on size and location. Investigate before you construct what may have to come tumbling down.

High fences do not protect against crime. Experience has proven that high fences encourage burglary by protecting not the homeowner, but the criminal, shielding him/her from view once inside the fence.

In general, then, planning should consider the following:

• fence height should not be greater than is necessary for its intended use since it can have a significant impact on adjoining properties and general open space
• height and design should conform to other fences in the area
• the degree of openness of fences depends on their use, and it is often better to use fencing that is "broken" or staggered, not solid, to allow air flow and minimize the effect of shadows
• planting may often be integrated with fencing to soften the visual impact and, in many cases, natural barriers like shrubs and small trees can be used instead of fencing. Have that soil testing done and visit the horticultural "museums" in the area to discover the optimum species. Some types do not grow well here, like lugustrum, because it is not hardy enough.

Decide what your reason is for a fence: is it to block the view, to prevent traffic, to delineate your border, to create a special secret place? How much space do you have? Do you want bloom and seasonal interest or a plain, monochrome background? Must it be a vertical marker or could it be on the horizontal? Do you need evergreen for a screening all year long or is it acceptable for the leaves to fall? To stimulate your creative thinking, here are some suggestion: photinia (loves sun and has beautiful red color among its leaves); privet, tried and true; cherry laurel; and prickly types like barberry and ornamental orange.

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